Albanian Food: What to Try in Saranda
Albanian food is one of those quiet surprises you bring home from a holiday here. It isn't showy, but it's honest, fresh and generous. Ingredients are mostly local, portions are large and prices are kind to your wallet. In this guide we've put together what's worth trying on your very first visit — and why we suggest stepping into one of the little taverns right next to our apartment instead of hunting for something "touristy".
Byrek and the first tastes
Byrek is the Albanian classic you'll meet on every corner — thin layers of flaky pastry filled with cheese, spinach, minced meat, or a simple onion-and-tomato mix. It makes a perfect breakfast or a snack to take down to the beach, and you can grab one at the little shop under our building. A good way to start a meal is with meze: a plate of small starters, local cheese, olives and bread. Albania produces excellent olive oil and uses it freely, and a fresh salad of tomatoes, cucumber and feta comes with almost every meal.
National dishes: tavë kosi and fërgesë
If you try only one thing, make it tavë kosi — lamb baked with yogurt and eggs, sometimes with rice, served in a clay dish. It's creamy, gently tangy and richly fragrant, and it regularly tops lists of Albania's best-loved dishes. The second gem is fërgesë: peppers and tomatoes baked with soft cheese in a small pan, which many Albanians actually prefer lukewarm or cold. Both are homely, honest food and show beautifully what Albanian cooking tastes like away from tourist menus.
Grilled meats and street food
Albanians love the grill. Qofte are seasoned meatballs of lamb or beef with onion, oregano and mint — simple and moreish. The best thing to eat on the move is sufllaqe, the Albanian take on a gyro: spit-roasted meat wrapped in thin bread with a yogurt sauce, tomatoes and often a handful of fries tucked right inside. You'll also find skewers (qebapa) and mixed grills. It's cheap, filling and ideal after a day on the beach, which sits just behind our house.
Fresh fish and seafood
Saranda sits on the Ionian Sea, so fish and seafood are a natural choice here. The coastal cooking is lighter than the hearty fare of the mountainous north — grilled octopus, fresh fish by the catch of the day, prawns or mussels with olive oil and lemon. In taverns fish is often priced by weight, so it's fine to ask the price and let them pick a piece for you. We'd suggest eating where the locals do; the restaurants next door and across the street from the apartment are a good start.
Raki, coffee and something sweet
Raki is the Albanian spirit — clear and without aniseed, usually made from grapes but also from plums or mulberries. You'll often be offered it as a welcome or to round off a meal; sip it slowly, it tends to be strong. Albania's coffee culture is huge: a small, strong espresso or a Turkish coffee at a pavement table is part of the daily rhythm. And then dessert: baklava soaked in syrup and nuts, or trileçe — a moist 'three-milk' sponge with a caramel topping. Both are sweet, and both are worth it.
FAQ
Is Albanian food expensive?
Quite the opposite — value for money is excellent and portions tend to be large. Prices do vary by season and place, though, so always check current prices in the venue itself, especially for fish charged by weight.
Can I find vegetarian options in Saranda?
Yes. Byrek with cheese or spinach, fërgesë, fresh salads, local cheeses and olive oil are all great meat-free choices. Just say you'd rather skip the meat — locals are very accommodating.
Do I need to order fish in advance?
Not usually. A tavern will typically show you the day's catch and let you choose. The price is often by weight, so in season it's wise to confirm it before they cook it.
