Gjirokastër: the stone city in the mountains
When you've had your fill of beach days and want to see another side of Albania, Gjirokastër is an easy pick. This UNESCO-listed "stone city" sits inland in the mountains, about an hour and a half by car from Saranda, and it feels like a completely different world from the coast.
From our apartment in Saranda you can set off in the morning and be back by the sea in the evening. It's a full-day trip, but worth it: grey-stone Ottoman houses, a fortress above the valley and an old cobbled bazaar give you a real sense of how Albania looked centuries ago.
Why Gjirokastër is special
The historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005. It's nicknamed the stone city because the houses, lanes and even the rooftops are built from the same grey limestone and slate, as if the whole town grew straight out of the hillside.
A castle with valley views
The huge hilltop fortress is one of the largest in the Balkans. From the ramparts you get sweeping views over the Drino valley and the surrounding mountains. Inside there's an old armoury and plenty of history, so it's easy to lose track of time up there.
Ottoman houses and the old bazaar
Along the cobbled old bazaar you can browse handmade souvenirs and stop for a coffee. Just above it stands the Zekate House, one of the best-preserved Ottoman mansions, with carved wooden ceilings, twin towers and a fine view over the town.
A town with a story
Gjirokastër is the birthplace of the world-famous writer Ismail Kadare and of the communist dictator Enver Hoxha. If you're into 20th-century history, you can also explore the Cold War Tunnel, a vast underground bunker dug during the communist era.
Making a day of it from our Saranda base
Set off early, have lunch in Gjirokastër and head back towards evening. The drive itself winds through the mountains and is lovely on its own. Back at our apartment, the beach behind the house is just a couple of minutes away, a perfect end to a day of stone and history.
FAQ
How far is Gjirokastër from Saranda?
Roughly an hour and a half by car, depending on traffic. The road heads inland through the mountains, so plan it as a full-day trip rather than a quick hop.
Can you see Gjirokastër in one day?
Yes. The castle, the old bazaar and one Ottoman house (such as the Zekate House) can be comfortably covered in a single day, leaving you back at the coast by evening.
What's worth seeing in Gjirokastër?
The big three are the hilltop castle with its views, the old bazaar and one of the preserved Ottoman houses. History lovers can add the Cold War Tunnel or the childhood home of writer Ismail Kadare.
