The Albanian Riviera by car, heading north from Saranda
Our apartment in Saranda makes a great base for day trips. And the best of them all heads north along the coastal road, the SH8, which winds high above the Ionian Sea from one stone village to the next, all the way up to the famous Llogara Pass.
You can do it as one long day, or take it slowly and stay overnight somewhere along the way before driving back. A rental car is by far the best way to do this. Buses run the route, but nothing beats your own car for stopping at viewpoints and slipping down to a quiet beach.
What the road is like
The SH8 is fully paved and in good condition, but it is a narrow two-lane road full of bends, climbs and clifftop drops. Saranda to Himara is about an hour and a half of driving, but realistically you should allow much more, because you will keep stopping for the views.
Borsh — Albania's longest beach
Roughly an hour north of Saranda you reach Borsh, with about seven kilometres of pebble beach, the longest in the country. It is a quieter, less polished alternative to Ksamil and makes a perfect first stop for a coffee and a quick dip.
Porto Palermo and old Qeparo
A little further on, the Ottoman fortress of Porto Palermo sits on a narrow spit of land, built for Ali Pasha; the clear water around it is lovely for snorkelling. Above the modern village of Qeparo clings the old stone village, with half-ruined houses and narrow lanes. It is a slightly haunting, very beautiful place for a wander.
Himara and the hillside villages
Himara is the main stop along the way, with good beaches and an old town on the hill around its castle, where you can park, walk and grab lunch. Beyond it the road passes a string of villages such as Vuno that still keep their traditional stone architecture.
Dhermi, Drymades and the top of the drive
Dhermi and neighbouring Drymades are among the prettiest beaches on the Riviera: white pebbles, olive trees, beach bars and quiet corners away from the crowds. This is a good spot for grilled fish and house wine by the sea before you head up into the mountains.
The Llogara Pass — the grand finale
Above Dhermi begins the Llogara Pass, a twisting mountain road climbing to 1,027 metres through dozens of hairpin turns. At the top there is a viewpoint, restaurants and the famous wind-bent 'flag' pines. The view down over the whole coastline is exactly why people make this drive.
FAQ
Can the trip be done in a single day?
Yes. You can drive from Saranda up to the Llogara Pass and back in one long day if you set off in the morning. For a more relaxed pace with time to swim, it is worth staying overnight in Dhermi or Himara and returning the next day.
Do I need a rental car for this?
We recommend one. Buses do run along the coast, but with a car you can stop at viewpoints, drop down to quiet beaches like Borsh or Drymades and go at your own pace. The road is winding, so expect slower driving than the distances suggest.
How long does it take to drive from Saranda to Dhermi?
Approximately one and a half to two hours of actual driving, depending on traffic and how often you stop. In season the road and Himara get busier, so leave yourself extra time.
